Q. Where are you located?
A. We live in Hibbing, which is located in Northern Minnesota. We are about an
hour Northwest of Duluth.
Q. What type of Siamese do you breed? Do you have
A. At Fairy Dust Cattery we breed the 'wedge' or 'show' style of Siamese,
sometimes called 'extreme'. (This type of Siamese cat is sometimes mistakenly
called "modern'. I don't like this term because it implies that it is a new
breed, when actually my cats' pedigrees go back to the 1800's. The Siamese
breed has always had the same breed standard, however...over the years through
selective breeding our cats more closely meet that written standard.) I do not
breed Appleheads, also known as Traditional Siamese or Old-Style Siamese.
Wedge Siamese are sleek, athletic and very elegant. This type of show-style
Siamese has a body type that is very slender but muscular. 'Wedge' Siamese meet
the Breed Standard for CFA. See Siamese breed standard. Their
fur is extremely soft and fine. Some people mistake them for 'hairless' cats
upon first sight at a cat show, but their fur is actually about 1/2 inch to an
inch long, it just lies very close to the body, we call it a 'tight' coat. I
find that my Siamese shed very little, something that most people will
appreciate! Their ears are large...set low on their head and wide at the base.
Their eyes are a brilliant blue and slightly slanted, giving them
that 'Oriental' look.
Q. What if we don't want a Siamese that is very extreme-
A. What we consider 'pet quality' tends to be much less extreme than what you
will see on the show bench. If you prefer a more moderate look, don't worry,
each kitten is unique and can vary in appearance from very moderate (pet
quality) to extreme (show quality). Please see our Females and Retired pages
for a couple of examples. 'Lily' is a less extreme Siamese, and 'Maggie' is
an example of a more extreme Siamese. 'Sugar Plum' (on the females page) while
not as extreme as 'Maggie', is a good example of a show quality cat. Also,
please see 'Cracker Jack' on the Males page for
another extreme Siamese.
Q. What is the difference in the four colors?
A. Seal points are the darkest of the four colors and the color most people
think of as a "traditional" Siamese color. Chocolate points have
lighter brown points with a whiter body, they tend to keep the contrast in
their bodies even as they get older, unlike Seal points which get much darker.
Blue points have grayish-blue points and a slightly shaded body. Lilac points
are the lightest of the four colors, and stay white in the body even when they
are older. Please see my new colors page for
pictures and more info.
Q. Is there a difference in personality between males and
A. Of course this is only my opinion and other breeders may disagree, but I
firmly believe that the male kittens are more mellow and affectionate.
Whenever I have a favorite kitten in a litter, it is almost always a
male! I can also honestly say that in my experience with multiple-cat
households, multiple males get along better than multiple females. The females
tend to be more territorial and 'bossy'. I get several requests for females,
and when I ask why they prefer a female, lots of people answer that they
"have always had females", or they have heard males spray (see next
question), etc. Due to the fact that I will always have more males available
than females, I suggest being flexible when it comes to choosing a gender.
Q. Will a male cat spray after he is neutered?
A. No, there is no reason to worry about this. The odds of your neutered male
spraying are about the same as a female spraying (very unlikely!), therefore,
don't let it affect your decision on gender! Just be sure to get him neutered
at the appropriate age, preferably before six months old.
Q. What is the price range of your kittens?
A. Pet quality kitten prices are as follows: Seal points start at $400.
Blue points start at $450. Chocolate points start at $450-500. Lilac points
start at $500. Show quality prices are usually $800-$1500. (Please
inquire if you are looking for show quality, if you are interested in
premiership, prices are lower.) Older retired cats are sometimes
available for the price of the spay/neuter operation plus a small fee. See shipping costs if you need your kitten shipped to you.
*NOTE* All pet quality kittens will now be spayed/neutered before sale and
the cost of surgery will be added on to the price of the kitten. No
exceptions. For males (neuter), add $100 to the prices listed above, for
females (spay) add $150 to the price.
Q. Do you sell kittens for less without 'papers'?
A. No. A reputable breeder should always give the registration slip for every
kitten they sell. It does not cost very much to register a litter of kittens,
and if a breeder is selling cats without papers, it usually means that they
don't have papers (or breeding rights) on the parents, and therefore shouldn't
be breeding the cats in the first place.
Q. What does 'Pet Quality' mean?
A. Pet quality' does not mean there is something wrong with a kitten. It just
means that the kitten does not meet the 'standard' of the breed well enough to
be shown and be competitive at cat shows. The ears may not be large enough, or
set low enough on the head, the eye color might be a little light, or the coat
might be too long, etc. There may be a kink in the tail, or crossed eyes,
etc. None of these things affect the health of the cat, and to most pet
buyers, would not be noticeable, but they would be noticeable to a judge and
therefore we do not show or breed these kittens. For a detailed description of
the breed standard, see here.
Q. Can I get a 'Show Quality' kitten even though I only
want a pet?
A. Usually when people ask this question, I investigate further and discover
that they just want the "extreme" look, but they don't want to show the
kitten. I try to honor people's preferences on looks and personality, so I
would just ask that you fill out the "comments" section on the kitten deposit
form explaining that you would prefer a more extreme look in your kitten. Any
specific details can be mentioned here, such as wanting a kitten with big
"bat" ears, or a very refined body type. Most pet buyers will not
notice any difference between an extreme pet-quality kitten and a show-quality
Q. What is a 'Retired Adult'?
A. A 'Retired Adult' is an adult cat that was part of our breeding program and
has now been spayed or neutered, and 'retired' from our breeding program. It
isn't possible for us to keep every one of our retired breeders, and they
deserve to go to a pet home where they can get more individual attention and
enjoy being spoiled, just like one of our kittens.
Q. Why do purebred kittens cost so much?
A. There are many factors that affect the price of purebred cats. Responsible
breeders put a LOT of money into their breeding program. This is not usually a
profitable venture. A lot of money is spent on cat shows (for me, usually $300-
$400 a weekend, with an average of one to two shows per month), expensive
premium foods and cat litters, and vet bills. There are also advertising
costs, cattery registration and inspection fees, and individual kitten/cat
registration costs. My kittens have all their vaccinations before they leave
home, and they also receive a health check by a licensed veterinarian before
they go. My adult cats are tested regularly for FeLV, etc. along with various
health screening tests done for breeding cats. Breeders also face unexpected
vet bills such as Caesarean sections, pyometras, etc. Most people are not
prepared to house a "whole" male that sprays, and must then build
special accommodations for him, or even more than one male, which can add up to
a considerable expense.
Q. Do you sell cats for breeding?
A. I do not generally sell kittens or cats for breeding unless the buyer is
already involved with breeding/showing in CFA or another association. If the
buyer is interested in showing a cat in premiership first, I will consider
working with that person on establishing a breeding program. Showing in
premiership means that the cat is altered. I feel that if a buyer first learns
about showing with an altered cat, without having all of the added trouble of
showing/housing a 'whole' cat, they will be better able to decide if they
really want to get into breeding cats. I will NOT sell cats for breeding to
anyone that merely wants to produce kittens just for fun. There are far too
many homeless cats/kittens in shelters now.
Q. What is premiership?
A. In CFA, you can show a cat that is 'fixed' (spayed or neutered). These cats
are shown in the alter class which is called 'premiership'. See CFA's website
for more information on showing in premiership.
Q. Do you offer stud service?
A. No, for the health of all my cats and kittens I keep a closed cattery, which
means I do not offer stud service to anyone.
Q. Do you guarantee your kittens?
A. Yes, my kittens are guaranteed for health and temperament. New owners must
take their kitten to a licensed vet for a health check within 72 hours of
purchase in order for this guarantee to be valid. If the kitten is declawed,
the guarantee does not apply. Declawing can cause many health and
behavioral problems, such as litter box avoidance and biting. Please see this
link on declawing. There is
also a great product that I recommend called 'Soft Paws'. These are vinyl nail
caps that glue on to your cat's claws and they are available in clear or
colored caps! See their website at www.softpaws.com.
Q. How old are your kittens when you sell them?
A. I sell kittens at 14-16 weeks of age or older. Kittens must be at least 16
weeks of age to be shipped. If you would like more information on why kittens
must be a certain age before being sold, please see this link How young is too young?
Q. Do your kittens come with shots?
A. Yes, my kittens are current on all vaccinations when they leave. They will
however need a rabies vaccination at sixteen weeks of age or older. This will
need to be done if you have your kitten shipped to you. (It is the buyer's
responsibility to pay for the rabies vaccination and health certificate when
Q. What vaccinations do you give your kittens?
A. I give my kittens a complete series of vaccinations, using Fel-O-Vax PCT
killed virus, which is a core vaccine covering panleukopenia, calicivirus, and
rhinotracheitis. I also may give my kittens vaccinations against Bordetella
(Protex Bb MLV). I also de-worm the kittens before they go to their new
Q. Do you sell with a contract?
A. Yes, my kittens are sold with a contract. I
require that my kittens are kept indoors and are not declawed. My kittens will
be spayed or neutered before they go to their new homes, and it is the
new owner's responsibility to pay for this surgery.
Q. How old should my kitten be when it is spayed or
A. I am now doing early spay/neuters, which means that all my pet quality
kittens will already be altered when they go to their new homes. They will be
altered at approximately 14 weeks of age.
Q. Do you sell your kittens already spayed or neutered?
A. YES. Beginning in 2004 all my kittens will be spayed or neutered before
they go to their new homes. The surgery will be done at approximately 14 weeks
of age, and the kitten will be available one to two weeks later. The cost of
the surgery will be paid by the new owner.
Q. How much does it cost to pay for the spay/neuter
A. I charge $100 for neuters and $150 for spays. This may be more
expensive than what your own vet charges, but you will have the satisfaction of
knowing everything has been taken care of already when you get your kitten.
The kitten will also be able to recover from the surgery in a familiar
environment with his siblings and mother.
Q. Can I get my kitten at a younger age and have it
altered with my own vet because it's cheaper?
A. No. There are no exceptions to this policy. If all you are concerned with
is saving a few dollars, I suggest you shop elsewhere for a bargain basement
kitten. My vet does not 'cut corners' and just because you might be able to
find a cheaper vet does not mean he is better.
Q. Can my kitten go outdoors?
A. NO, absolutely not. For all the reasons that I do not want my kittens to be
let outdoors, please read my web page on why cats should be kept indoors.
Q. Do you accept personal checks?
A. I accept personal checks for deposits that are sent at least two weeks
before the kitten is ready to leave home. For any balance due after that point
I require a money order, cashier's check, credit card, or cash. NO
Q. Do you accept deposits for kittens?
A. Yes, I will accept deposits to hold kittens. Half the purchase price
(minimum of $150) is requested, and a personal check is acceptable. I will not
accept deposits unless I believe that I will have a kitten for you within a
short period of time. I will NOT hold kittens without a deposit, no
exceptions! Deposits will be held for one week and are then non-refundable,
unless a kitten does not become available within one year. See deposit contract.
Q. Do you accept payments through Paypal?
A. Yes, I will now accept payments through Paypal. Please e-mail
me with any questions. (There is a 2% fee for credit card payments.)
Q. Do you ship your kittens?
A. Yes, I will ship my kittens. The kitten must be at least 16 weeks of age.
Buyer is responsible for all shipping costs, including airfare, shipping crate,
rabies vaccination, health certificate/exam, and my transportation to the
airport. I do NOT ship kittens unless a kitten contract has been signed and
returned to me first, with full payment. Shipping will depend on the weather
also. At this time, I am using Continental Airlines for most of my shipping,
and Northwest Airlines as a back-up.
Q. How much does it cost to ship a kitten?
A. This can vary a great deal, depending on the airline and the destination,
but in my experience the cost for airfare has been between $150 and
$250 (Prices have gone up recently). There is also a $150 fee for the shipping crate, health certificate,
rabies vaccination, and transporting the kitten to the airport. This breaks down to:
shipping crate=$35, vet fees=$65, transportation fee=$50. (Also, depending on
the time of the flight, it is sometimes necessary for me to stay overnight at a
hotel due to the fact that I live over three hours from the airport.) The
average total cost to ship one kitten is at least $300. Two kittens can be
shipped almost as cheaply as one, you just need to pay for an extra health
certificate/exam and rabies vaccination, but they can be shipped in the same
carrier. The minimum cost to ship two kittens is $375. If the kittens
are older though, it may be necessary to go to the next size carrier, which
will add at least $50-$80 to the cost.
Q. What brand of food do you feed your cats?
A. I feed a variety of premium foods, including Iams, Royal Canin Siamese, and
occasionally Eukanuba. Any one of these, or a combination, would be a good
choice to feed your kitten. For moist foods, as a treat, I offer the Whiskas
pouches, 9-lives shredded varieties, and prescription A/D from the vet. I very
much recommend having the A/D on hand at all times. It is very useful when you
have a sick cat, or if you are trying to tempt a new kitten to eat. Chicken or
turkey baby food also work very well in small amounts. As a last resort, fresh
(cooked) chicken is also very tempting. Another tip I would like to offer is
that a cat with loose stools will often do very well on Iams hairball control
formula. *Note* For more info on new formula by Royal Canin made
specifically for Siamese cats, see link.
Q. Do you provide references?
A. Yes, you may contact my veterinarian, Dr. David Kalinowski DVM at 218-749-
5206 (PLEASE respect that he may be busy when you call!), or you may contact
any of the buyers on my Letters from Kitten Buyers
page. Alternatively, you may contact me and I can put you
in touch with recent buyers.
Q. What type of kitty litter do you use?
A. I use plain clay litter. I don't like the clay scoopable because it is
possible for the cats to ingest it and get sick. I generally buy Tidy Cat or
whatever is cheapest (although I stay away from the generic brands due to the
excessive amount of dust). We clean each litter box totally every couple of
days or every day if needed. We have been using the litter box liners with
good results. This makes clean-up a lot easier. We are using the 'fresh
kitty' brand liners, and the cats don't scratch holes in them either. (For an
excellent article on the dangers of clumping cat litter, please see this link
on the dangers of clumping
litter.) *NOTE* There ARE safe alternatives of clumping litter,
and the link will list those.
Q. What kind of grooming does a Siamese require?
A. For grooming your Siamese, you will need a rubber curry brush for
cats. It is about four inches long with nubs on both sides, one side is flat
and the other side is inverted with a v-shape. This is all they really
require, although bathing occasionally is ok. I use Pet Silk™
products for grooming, see Pet Silk™ page to
order. After bathing, brush with the rubber curry brush, then use a chamois
cloth to smooth the coat. Trim the nails and clean the ears with a cotton ball
and an ear cleaning solution for cats and your cat is perfectly groomed!
*NOTE* I am now a distributor for Pet Silk™ products, if you have
questions about this grooming line, please contact me. You may also
order a Kitten Kit with specific items for
grooming and toys for your kitten.
Q. Will a kitten get along with my existing pets?
A. It may take a while for your new kitten to be accepted by your other pets.
I always recommend keeping your new kitten in a small room for a few days to
let the kitten adjust to the new household. Older cats will generally accept a
kitten within a few weeks to a few months. In some cases, the cats may never
get along, but this is rare. I do not have any dogs in my household, but I
have found that my kittens adjust to dogs very well, and usually end up being
very good friends. Please use caution and do not leave the pets alone together
until you are sure that they are getting along well.